Wines Niagara Escarpment (New York) Forge Cellars - Wagner Caywood East Dry Riesling - 2023

Viniou Reviews

Forge Cellars' 2023 Cuvée Wagner Caywood East Dry Riesling from the Niagara Escarpment AVA in New York is a striking example of the potential this cool-climate American region holds for Riesling. Crafted purely from Riesling grapes, this dry white wine showcases the variety’s crisp precision and vibrant aromatics. The 2023 vintage benefited from a relatively cool growing season, helping the grapes retain fresh acidity while developing nuanced, expressive flavors. The wine undergoes careful vinification in stainless steel to preserve the integrity of the fruit and the signature minerality of the vineyard, resulting in a crystalline, dry style with brilliant clarity and tension.

The Niagara Escarpment is a fascinating viticultural area, shaped by the limestone ridge that stretches from New York through Ontario. The soils here—rich in limestone and shale—impart a distinctive mineral backbone to the wines. The proximity to Lake Ontario and the unique slope of the escarpment create a microclimate ideal for white grapes, providing ample sunshine while allowing for pronounced diurnal temperature swings. This contrast preserves aromatic intensity and bright acidity in varieties like Riesling. Although the region is still growing in renown, its winemaking history dates to the 19th century, with renewed attention from innovative producers like Forge Cellars.

This dry Riesling’s racy acidity and refined citrus and stone fruit notes make it remarkably versatile at the table. It’s a classic partner for fresh seafood such as oysters, grilled shrimp, or seared scallops. Its minerality pairs beautifully with Asian-inspired dishes featuring ginger or lemongrass, or even regional specialties like Lake Erie perch with herb butter. For a local touch, try it alongside artisanal New York cheeses or lightly spiced apple salad.

For the best experience, serve this Riesling well-chilled, ideally at around 8-10°C. This temperature will highlight its crisp structure while allowing the complexity of its aromatics to unfold in the glass. If possible, use a narrow white wine glass to intensify the expressive nose and preserve its vibrant freshness.