Viniou Reviews
The 1988 Meursault Charmes Premier Cru from Domaine des Comtes Lafon is an exemplary expression of Chardonnay from one of Burgundy's most celebrated appellations. This cuvée, originating from the prestigious Charmes vineyard, benefits from old vines rooted in deep, stony limestone and marl soils, lending both richness and minerality to the wine. Vinified and matured with great care, often using a proportion of new French oak, this wine is known for its generous texture, complex aromatics, and remarkable longevity. The 1988 vintage, marked by a balanced growing season, produced wines with refreshing acidity, concentration and depth. Expect aged notes with a bouquet of roasted hazelnuts, ripe orchard fruit, buttery pastry, and an undercurrent of flint or gunpowder. On the palate, the wine reveals an unctuous, layered structure while retaining the vivid tension characteristic of great Meursault.
The commune of Meursault is nestled in the heart of the Côte de Beaune, an area historically renowned for its white wines of finesse and power. The terroir here is defined by a mosaic of limestone-rich soils, varying exposures, and a temperate yet continental climate, with cool nights helping preserve aromatic freshness. The history of winemaking in Meursault dates back centuries, with Premier Cru sites like Charmes earning their reputation for producing whites of exceptional character and ageing potential.
Pairing this mature Meursault Premier Cru calls for refined yet flavourful dishes. Classic matches include roasted poultry such as Bresse chicken in a cream and morel sauce, veal blanquette, or lobster with buttered leeks. Regionally, it would shine next to a quenelle de brochet (pike dumpling) in Nantua sauce or escalope de veau à la crème. Rich, nutty cheeses like Comté or aged Beaufort can also complement its complexity.
For optimal enjoyment, serve this wine between 12-14°C. Given its age, decanting for half an hour is advisable to allow the bouquet to fully develop. Use generous Burgundy glasses to let the wine express its full aromatic range. This is a wine meant to be savoured slowly, appreciating its evolution in the glass.
